When it comes to convenience, the battery has given us so much. From the calculator to the car and the motorbike to the mobile phone, these modern inventions would be nothing without a battery to power them. Batteries are great beyond a shadow of a doubt, but they do have one inconvenient downside - they run out.

The good news is that the life of most batteries can be extended with a little care and know how. Let's take a look at how you can get more out of your motorbike, lawnmower and mobility scooter batteries and not only save yourself money but also the inconvenience of a drained battery when you least expect it.

When looking for a rechargeable battery it is important to select the best quality battery that your money can buy. It's true that you get what you pay for and when you choose a low quality, low cost battery, you can expect it to degrade very quickly.

For example, you might notice that you need to charge your battery more often or that it refuses to charge at all after a while. In contrast, a decent and reliable battery will last longer and provide more power with fewer charges as a result.

When it comes to looking for a suitable battery for your appliance, device or machine, don’t forget that a low cost battery won’t be as efficient.

No other vehicle can compare to a motorbike when it comes to freedom, power and speed rolled into one. So the last thing you'll want is to be stuck on the hard shoulder with a flat battery in the rain.

The first way to ensure your battery doesn't let you down is to choose the right battery for your particular bike. Incompatible batteries can wear out much faster so it is important that you check your owner's manual or ask your local garage or supplier to find and fit the right battery.

You should also ensure that your battery is kept fully charged. If you ride every day this shouldn't be difficult. Consult the manual or ask your battery supplier for further information if you need assistance.

If you are lucky enough to own a sit-on lawnmower, we’re guessing you have quite a large lawn to maintain. Don't risk running out of juice halfway through mowing the lawn when looking after your battery will ensure it charges and takes you to the end of the job.

Never fully discharge your lawnmower battery as this can significantly reduce its storage capacity. If you have a 3 stage charger on your mower, it will automatically stop the recharging process once the battery is fully charged and switch to a low ‘trickle charge’ where there is no need to disconnect the battery. However, if you have a ‘constant current’ charger it is important to remove your battery from the charger once it has been fully charged to avoid any damage.

Regularly check your cord, charger and battery to ensure they are in good working order and store your battery according to the advice in your owner's manual.

Don't risk your mobility scooter running out of power when you need it the most. Normal battery life will depend on a number of factors, including the frequency of use and charging, the length of discharge, and the temperature at which the battery is being stored when not in use.

It is recommended that a mobility scooter battery is charged every day after it’s been used. Most mobility scooter chargers are sized to charge the battery, from discharged, in around 7-10 hours - also referred to as an ‘overnight charge’. This might not always be possible to achieve due to your own commitments, but if you look after your battery now, it will serve you well in the future.

Your owner's manual will be able to give you the best advice on battery care no matter what the device, appliance or type of battery.

Good quality batteries should give you years of reliable use but that life cycle does largely depend on the frequency they are being used and the care and attention they are given. When looked after properly, your batteries will give you a good run for your money and help you to avoid the frustration and expense of premature failure.

For further battery advice, contact Blue Box Batteries today.

Battery image from Bigstock.

Replacing a lead acid battery? Confused about the terminal types on offer and want to be sure you are buying the right type? Don’t worry, it’s much easier than you think. So, take a look at this short Blue Box Batteries guide on some of the most common terminal types found on lead acid batteries.

Most 'small sealed lead acid' batteries (SSLA), such as the Yuasa NP battery range or the Fiamm FG range, utilise a connector style known as a ‘faston tab’. This type of connector allows for a slide on / slide off style which avoids the need for a nut and bolt, thus making connecting and replacing batteries as simple as possible.

It is important to know which tab size you have on your existing battery to ensure that the new battery you order has the correct tab size for the pre existing connector cables fixed within the equipment the battery is to be installed in to, such as a lawnmower or mobility scooter for example.

Tabs for SSLA batteries come in two sizes, they can be an ‘F1’ type, which means the tab is 4.8mm (.187”) wide, or an ‘F2’ type, which means the tab is 6.3mm (.25”) wide. If you order an F2 type when the connectors are made for an F1, then you may find that the connectors will not fit the new battery, so it’s always best to check first just to be sure.

An F2 terminal tends to be present on batteries installed in applications where the discharge current can be on the greater side, such as uninterruptible power supplies (which discharges the battery very quickly) or equipment using larger SSLA batteries, such as mobility scooters (though larger mobility batteries will use a traditional nut and bolt solution).

F1 terminal batteries are commonly found in equipment where the discharge rate is somewhat lower, such as fire alarms and toys. Some battery sizes offer both F1 and F2 tab sizes, so if in doubt always consult with your battery supplier to ensure that you are purchasing the correct type for your requirements.

Many larger batteries, including ‘Valve Regulated Lead Acid’ (VRLA) batteries as well as some SSLA, will use a traditional ‘nut and bolt’ connection which threads through a ‘flag / lug’ style terminal and secures the connection in place. This is also a common connection type for motorcycle batteries too.

In many modern VRLA/SSLA batteries this is now being replaced with an ‘insert’ style connection which involves a single bolt (no nut) which inserts down into the battery into a threaded hole. This is also known as a ‘one tool terminal’ as there is no need to hold a nut in place and only a socket set ratchet is required.

In European VRLA terms the most common sizes for insert terminals are between M5 & M8 depending on the rating of the battery. This can be seen on products from such major manufactures as Yuasa, Fiamm, Enersys & Exide. This is a metric sizing referring to the size of the diameter of the bolt thread, so if you have an M5 terminal, this will require a bolt with a 5mm diameter thread.

Some American brands, such as C & D Technologies, will refer to a UNC measurement (Unified National Coarse) or a UNF (Unified National Fine) and will give reference to an imperial measurement followed by an additional number, such as ¼-20 UNC. This means 1/4 inch diameter of the bolt with 20 threads per inch, this would be the course thread. The fine thread size for this bolt would be 28, expressed as ¼-28 UNF.

As shown, bolts required for this type of connection can come in a variety of sizes, so make sure that these are supplied with the battery where possible, or that your existing fixings will be suitable. It is common place for manufacturers to supply fixings with VRLA batteries.

Post type terminals are most often used on automobile, marine starting batteries and leisure batteries. This type relies on clamp style connectors to secure to the battery terminals to hold the insulation in place.

The most common type of this terminal is the SAE post which is of a plain conical type design, positioned on the top of the battery, each slightly differing in diameter. This style is instantly recognisable to anyone who has replaced a car battery. Another type you may find (predominantly within the early Japanese car market) is the JIS type, which is very similar to the SAE post but smaller in size.

Much like the ‘insert’ terminal this can be considered very much a ‘one tool terminal’ though rather than a female insert, a male threaded post allows a nut to be threaded down to secure the connection in place.

In VRLA battery terms this type of terminal has become less popular of late as the post on this type (compared with the SAE post terminals described in the previous section) can be narrow and sometimes prone to damage during transport and installation.

For standby applications such as uninterruptible power supplies, emergency lighting and telecoms it is now much more common to find the ‘insert’ terminal type being used.

Thanks for reading our short guide - we hope you have found it useful. Remember that if in doubt, always speak to your battery supplier first. Should you need further assistance then please don’t hesitate to this contact Blue Box Batteries today.

Last battery image from Bigstock.

We've all seen either the elderly or the disabled getting around town with the aid of their mobility scooter. These devices in their most basic form are electric wheelchairs, with a lever to direct it and a couple of buttons for added functionality.

However, nowadays there are more and more mobility scooters which are being 'souped up’ as it were – with people sensing an opportunity to take the standard mobility scooter, modify it, and create something that is more enjoyable for riders and spectators alike.

If you don't believe us, then take a look below - we've found five of the best 'souped up' mobility scooters around.

Driving at 70 miles per hour is risky and dangerous enough in a regular automobile - but doing it on a modified mobility scooter is a different story altogether. Having said that, Colin Furze clearly enjoys taking the risks as he skids and slides through the snow, doing some crazy turns in the process.

The scooter itself has been modified, of course, but not aesthetically it would seem - purely in terms of its performance. Take a look for yourself at crazy Colin in the following video.

If you’re going to modify a mobility scooter to have a 600cc engine, you’ve got to do it in style.

We include dressing in motorcycle leathers in that category too – but in this video, your eyes soon turn from the choice of clothing to the mobility scooter and the rapid acceleration achieved. Car manufacturers brag about how quickly they can do 0-60mph, and this scooter fits perfectly in the same category.

Believe it or not, this scooter can actually reach 120mph, and holds the world record for the fastest mobility scooter. If this was flying down your local high street you definitely wouldn’t want to get in its way.

Watch this short clip as the driver pulls away from 0mph at quite a remarkable speed.

This may not be the most impressive mobility scooter modification you’ll ever see, but it’s definitely one of the most impressive videos.

It was of course only a matter of time before the Top Gear boys decided to try out their skills on a few mobility scooters and the results are very funny indeed.

From getting stuck in the mud, breaking parts and racing against one another, the eight minute video is worth watching to see the humorous side of souped up mobility scooters.

When the driver is waving to a motorcyclist as he overtakes them, you know this mobility scooter is fast. But it’s the jumps, the bunny hopping and the skidding on the ice that makes this scooter so impressive – as well as the fact that the driver looks so unimpressed the entire time of course.

The stunts and manoeuvres are both insane and dangerous and as the caption says, that's one hell of a way to spend a retirement fund.

Of course we don’t condone mimicking any of this behaviour for yourself, although we do condone watching the video below to see these crazy moves in action.

The modifications made on this mobility scooter are definitely up there with the best.

LED lights, indicators, a horn (yes, a horn), disc brakes, a sports seat and other aesthetic changes make this a scooter to be proud of and certainly one that is bound to catch the eye.

Performance isn’t too bad, either, with a 200cc engine sending the rider down the road and to the local shops in good time, but this is a scooter that's all about the look.

To modify a scooter to this standard you need a fair bit of time, and a fair bit of cash too - not to mention a very creative personality to make the changes.

Mobility scooters are extremely useful devices, although these videos show exactly what can be done to turn them into more powerful, crazy and souped up machines. We hope you’ve enjoyed looking at these altered designs, but remember not to copy any actions that you have seen for yourself.

Mobility scooter image from Bigstock.

The world of motorsport has certainly come a long way over the past hundred years or so.

You might not know this, but the first ever series production bike was the Hildebrand and Wolfmüller which could achieve a top speed of 28mph. Whilst this might not sound a great deal, given the feats of modern day machinery, the Hildebrand could actually reach this speed working on only a simple steam-powered engine.

Since then, technology has evolved dramatically.

There are now bikes that cater to a wide range of interests, whether you’re into touring, cross-terrain, or road biking, and we now have machines that can test the limits, travelling up to 370mph and even jumping great heights.

With this in mind, here at Blue Box Batteries we have put together a collection of the top 5 motorcycle records past and present.

Perhaps the most sought after and high-octane record in motorcycle history, with 35 previous record holders since 1903.

So many records have been dominated before at the popular Bonneville Salt Flats, USA.

After two previous successful records of his own in 2006 and 2008, the American Rocky Robinson set an undisputed precedent in the history of land-speed on the 25th September 2010.

Using his specially constructed bike, which was produced using two powerful Suzuki engines, the Top 1 Ack Attack Streamliner; Robinson reached an incredible 376.363mph (605.697km/h).

The accomplishment was confirmed and certified by the Federation Internationale de Motorcyclisme, the leading authority for motor racing and in 2012 the Ack Attack’s triumph featured in the Guinness Book of Records.

Check out Rocky Robinson’s amazing run in the clip below.

Widely known as the Iron Butt challenge, the longest journey by motorcycle in a single country is currently held by American Buck Perley and British born Amy Mathieson riding as pillion.

Travelling on a Chinese made CFMOTO CF650-TR the pair’s dedicated trip took 146 days, from the 19th July to 11th December 2013 and saw them pass through every single one of China’s provinces along the way on an epic ride spanning 20,727 miles (33.157 kilometres).

A little different to your ground-breaking speed and jumps, the largest rideable motorcycle to ever be recorded was acknowledged just last year and is expected to feature in the Guinness Book of Records in 2014.

After seven gruelling months of hard work and determination by a team of eight, the behemoth fashioned by Italian product designer Fabio Reggiani finally stands at 5.10 metres high, 10.03 metres long, 2.5 metres wide and weighs a whopping 5 tonnes.

What’s more, the bike is powered with a 5.7 litre V8 engine that runs at an impressive 280HP.

To see Fabio’s bike in action, take a look at the video below.

If you’re fanatic about stunts then you’ll most certainly love this!

At the MotoRAI event, Amsterdam 2004 rider AC Farias, who actually hails from the Netherlands, pulled an unbelievable 89 metre (292ft) wheelie without using his hands, consequently breaking the existing world record.

In what has to be, the most successful death defying leap in motorbiking history, at just 27, motor cross stunt rider Robbie Maddison set a new world record and conquered the impossible.

As part of the Red Bull ‘New Year No Limits’ broadcast in Las Vegas, New Year’s Eve 2008, Robbie hurled himself off of a 10 metre ramp to land on the top of a 30 metre (96ft) replica of the Arc Di Triomph.

But that wasn’t it, once he had safely landed, Robbie then proceeded to make his way back down. He jumped off of the top of the monument, free-falling 25 metres (85ft) to land safe and sound on the ramp below, the impact of which opened a nasty cut on in his hand.

Watch Robbie’s jump here.

Clip courtesy of RedBull.

However, soon after Maddison’s amazing jump, a new contender Ronnie Renner went on to set a new record for the highest motorcycle jump from a quarterpipe. Well, that’s it for our collection of some of the best motorbiking world records to date. If you have any you would like to share, feel free to head over to the Blue Box Batteries Facebook page and let us know.

Bike image from Bigstock.

Picture the scenario: as summer is on the way you take your electric lawnmower out of the shed or garage to check that your machine is fully operational.

Whilst testing the lawnmower, you discover that the battery is no longer working. Well fear not, it’s a common problem for many people up and down the country.

So as you search for a replacement, how should you dispose of the existing battery? Here’s a quick look at some of your options.

Once you’ve removed the old battery from your lawnmower, you’ll need to dispose of it properly before fitting a new one.

Your first port of call is your local authority. Contact them to locate recycling centres or dumps in your area who will remove the battery for you.

Local recycling centres can take a number of items, including standard, car, and lawnmower batteries, but be sure to check first to avoid making a wasted journey.

Alternatively, if you cast your mind back and remember where you bought the battery from, you can also make contact with them too.

As of 2010, shops selling more than 32KG a year have to provide in store collection facilities for batteries.

For more information and advice, visit www.recyclenow.com - this helpful resource includes search functions for finding your local recycling banks too.

Whatever option you choose, always make sure that you dispose of your batteries properly.

Never throw your lawnmower battery in the bin as the acid can cause damage to the environment and some disposal companies will refuse to take it as it’s classed as hazardous waste.

Instead, use a trusted and legitimate source as they will know exactly what to do with it and they may even recycle the model to reuse again in the future.

Once you’ve dealt with the old battery, you’ll need to find a replacement for your lawnmower.

With so many sizes, brands, and voltages available, if you’re not sure which one you require, then it’s best to speak to the experts.

At Blue Box Batteries, we stock an extensive range of lawnmower batteries for a number of brands and models. We’ve got the right battery for the job, which means that your lawnmower will be up and running again in no time at all.

Visit our lawnmower batteries page, or contact us directly today for advice and we’ll be more than happy to help.

Lawnmower image from Bigstock.

There’s nothing worse than going to use your motorcycle only to find that your battery is flat.

Whether your motorcycle hasn’t been used for a while, you’ve left your lights on, or the weather is particularly cold, there’s always a risk of battery power going down when you need it most.

So, if your battery is flat, you should charge it to restore full power and to also prevent any damage occurring to the battery itself.

Let’s take a look at how you can successfully achieve this.

As the fluids in lead-acid batteries are toxic, it’s advised to make sure you are wearing protective equipment as advised by the manufacturer or the owner’s handbook/instructions. Once you are wearing the correct gear and the bike is in a spacious and ventilated area, remove the battery by using pliers. If it’s hard to reach, consult the owner’s manual first before attempting to remove it.

After it’s been removed, place it on a flat surface, such as a wooden workbench or a non-conductive surface. If it’s stored on concrete or a metal surface then it can lose capacity quickly. Whilst the battery is stable, check all of the connections to make sure that there isn’t any corrosion, tear or damage.

Some motorcycle chargers, such as the products supplied by Blue Box Batteries, feature leads that can be permanently fixed to your battery and hidden within your bike, ready to use at a later date. The charging process is then incredibly simple as it involves plugging the connector into the charger. However, this will depend on the age, make, and quality of the bike you own.

In all other instances, your first port of call is to refer to the manufacturer’s manual in order to view the relevant section on battery charging.

Before you begin, make sure you charger is turned off to avoid any sparks during connection. Next, with the battery on a flat surface, connect the charger by placing the positive wire to the positive cell and repeat the process for the negative wire/cell. Now, charge the battery for the required time as stated in the manufacturer’s manual.

If it becomes too hot at any stage, remove the charger, let the battery cool down and check with your supplier to ensure you are using the correct charger power rating.

Finally, after a full charge, turn off the power supply and disconnect the battery before putting it back in your motorcycle.

*Please note, for older style batteries, you may be required to add distilled or deionised water. Consult your owner’s manual for further information.

Whilst this process may sound easy to complete, if you don’t know what you’re doing, always seek technical assistance from the manufacturer’s manual or a specialist bike or battery supplier. You don’t want to make any mistakes which could cost you more in the long run.

Also, never use a car battery charger for your motorbike (a car battery charger is generally sized to deal with much larger Ah sizes than found in motorcycle batteries). As a good rule of thumb, the charger current should be at 10% of the Ah (ampere hour) rate of the battery. So for example, if you own a 10 amp battery, you should use a 1 amp charger. Using a car charger will supply too much current for it to handle and will result in permanent damage to the battery plates and cause it to gas and swell.

During the winter months, it’s worth removing the battery if your bike is exposed and stored in a cold environment. Moving the battery to warmer conditions will ensure that the water inside does not freeze and cause it to break.

Lastly, although it may seem obvious, never smoke in the same area where you are charging the battery as the oxygen and hydrogen gasses being produced can be flammable. For further advice and assistance on charging your battery, feel free to contact Blue Box Batteries today.

Motorbike image from Bigstock.